You can easily create a notebook or journal as an element for your kits from scratch - follow along with this tutorial to find out how!
You will need a paper texture you want to use for your notebook pages, or you can download mine from Mediafire. Included in the zip is the page border brush you can use, drawn by me in Illustrator. Both these resources are free for any purpose, commercial or personal with no credit required.
1. Start by opening up a new document at the size you want your notebook to be. Leave a little extra space around the edges for room to work. I'm going to use an 8x8" @300 ppi document, but my finished notebook will be a little smaller than that.
8. Now we need to add shading to our pages. Normally when a book is laying open, the pages fold in toward the spine of the book where they are bound. This makes the center a little bit darker and there is also normally a hightlight right beside the dark area where the pages are a little bit higher off the cover surface. We're actually going to use several gradient overlays to create our shading. Although we could do this non-destructively by creating gradients in layers above and clipping them to the pages, I'm going to use a simpler method here since our book is going to be distributed as a flattened element when we're done anyway.
9. Make sure that your book and cover is the final size you want for your element. We will be rasterizing our layers beyond this point and we will not be able to upscale them without pixellation.
11. We're going to start with a color burn gradient on our pages to create an interesting color effect. Press the D key to reset your swatches back to the default black and white. Select either one of your page layers and click the layer effects button to bring up the menu (looks like an "fx" icon at the bottom of your layers palette).
14. Repeat using the same layer style and same method of moving your gradient on the other page. Remember that your gradient angle will need to be set to 180 instead of 0 to get the black part of it starting at the spine, and you will need to move your gradient to the right instead of the left (if you're following the same order of pages as I am). You don't have to copy the gradient style exactly - a little bit of difference between the two effects will help to minimize the "computer graphics" feel of the piece and give it more realism.
15. We need to layer over at least one other gradient and optionally a third one after that, but we can't do that right now because we already have a gradient overlay effect and no layer can have more than one effect of each kind at any time. So we need to "flatten" the effect and make it part of the pixels of the layer instead of just an overlay.
16. An easy way to do this if you have the option available is to go to File -> Scripts -> Flatten All Layer Effects. You can also create a blank layer beneath each of your page layers and Merge each page layer Down on to the blank layer. This is pretty much exactly what the Script does automatically. This makes the overlay an inseperable part of the pixels on the layer, allowing us to add another gradient overlay through the layer styles menu.
18. Repeat the same layer style on the opposite page. Remember to change your angle settings and again, don't worry about matching the shading exactly - a little bit of asymmetry adds realism.
19. Repeat the operation in step 16 to flatten your layer styles again.
21. Copy each of your pages twice by pressing CTRL-J on each page twice to get two copies. Because all the copies will be stacked above your original, for convenience you'll just leave your highest copy (Layer 1 Copy 2 for example) in its original position as the page we see, and the other two will form some detail at the edges.
22. To create my example, I'm going to select the second copy down for each page (Layer 1 Copy 1 and Layer 2 Copy 1) and Nudge them 5 pixels to the left for the left page and 5 pixels to the right for the page. To nudge the layers, have your Move tool selected by pressing V and click the layer in the layers palette to select it. Use your arrow keys to nudge the layer by pressing the key 5 times.
23. Do the same for the last two layers, Layer 1 and Layer 2, but this time nudge them to the left and right by 10 pixels. Your top copy of each page should now be in their original positions, and the two below them should be moved over by 5 and 10 pixels for each level. For realism, you can change up how far you nudge the pages. You can use different increments for each side. They don't have to look perfect and even - in fact a little imperfection can be even better.
25. Your book pages are done! All that's left is to add a bevel & emboss layer style to your cover layers and do a quick quality check. If you've left enough of your book cover showing beneath the pages, you will not have to worry about shadow bleed because the shadow style should be very small and soft and not spread beyond the cover to bleed outside of the shape. If your covers are too small, they should still be custom shapes which will allow you to enlarge them and still maintain quality at this point if you want to.
Download Book from Mediafire Here